Reading about the Siamese kingdom of Ayutthaya, which reigned from 1351 to 1767, I was struck by a description of the feudal ranking system called “sakdina” that was put in place by King Trailok in the early 15th century. Here’s the Wiki summary:
Sakdina (Thai: ศักดินา) was a system of social hierarchy in use from the Ayutthaya to early Rattanakosin periods of Thai history. It assigned a numerical rank to each person depending on their status, and served to determine their precedence in society, and especially among the nobility. The numbers represented the number of rai of land a person was entitled to own—sakdina literally translates as “field prestige”—although there is no evidence that it was employed literally. The Three Seals Law, for example, specifies a sakdina of 100,000 for the Maha Uparat, 10,000 for the Chao Phraya Chakri, 600 for learned Buddhist monks, 20 for commoners and 5 for slaves.
China’s rulers may have learned something from Thai history, because they are now rolling out a dynamic, interactive, socially networked sakdina system for their own people. It is called the social credit system.
Whether it can successfully keep 1.4 billion people in line, in an advanced, high-tech and globally connected society, remains to be seen.
Khaosan Road in Bangkok, aka the “center of the backpacking universe” — actually a quarter of a mile long, though it feels longer — is a fun place to visit, if you enjoy being surrounded by approximately 2 trillion people in a loud, confined space.
A similarly pleasant experience can be had at a Chinese train station during the holiday travel rush, though unfortunately without the tattoo parlors and street hawkers offering you delicious fried scorpions.
Personally, I’d prefer to spend my time reclining:
Reclining Buddha at Wat Lokayasutharam (Phra Noon), Ayutthaya
Contemplating the Temporality of things:
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon (the Great Monastery of Auspicious Victory), Ayutthaya
Or riding a clickety-clackety old train between Bangkok and the ancient capital of Ayutthaya:
What do you do if you’re working a crane in Bangkok and your dinner is on the ground, 13 stories below? The question answers itself:
I am apartment-hunting. The landlord of the place I’m looking at points to a sign in the lobby of the building.
Landlord: This building also has a shuttle bus, it can take you to the BTS [elevated metro system], only 15 minutes.
Me: It takes 15 minutes to get to the BTS?
Landlord: Yes, very convenient.
Me: But the nearest BTS station is a 5-minute walk from here.
Landlord (laughs): You know, Thai people don’t like walking.
Me: You don’t say.
October 5th was the last day mourners in Thailand were able to pay respects to the late king’s royal urn. The royal cremation ceremony will be held on October 26th. From SCMP:
The funeral of Thailand’s late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who was known as Rama IX, will take place over five days in October with hundreds of thousands of mourners expected to attend.
For many Thais it will be their first experience of a royal funeral of a monarch. King Bhumibol ruled Thailand for more than seven decades and was widely regarded as the nation’s moral compass during decades of on-off political unrest.
King Bhumibol, 88, died on October 13, 2016. The country has been in an official year of mourning since then with many Thais choosing to wear black.